




L’Etape du Tour 2009
Friday evening before the Etape found me driving around the M25 dropping off my bike (+Julie Riley’s) at one of Sports Tours designated drop-off points so that we could avoid getting them left behind by the airlines. The evening started poorly with Hywel phoning me asking for advice on what to do about the fact that he was well on his way, driving down to the Channel Tunnel heading for Montelimar, without his critical Etape registration form. It didn’t get any better when I realised that the drop-off point – Clackett Lane Services was on BOTH sides of the M25, and I had no way to work out which side I was supposed to meet the “man with a van”. To cut a long story short, the bikes did eventually get dropped off, and when I finally got home, I was so stressed out that my week of alcohol abstinence had to be cancelled in favour of a large beer!
While I was the only person dropped off from the flight from Avignon into my chosen hotel, it turned out that evening, that I had a dozen other Etaper’s, including the legendary James Cracknell, OBE, double gold Olympic rower. Everybody was incredibly friendly and the hotel was great. Sunday was “bike construction” day and registration. We arrived at the gym that Sports Tours had hired to find we were the last people to be getting our bikes out of their boxes. I met up with Julie Riley and Paul Hart there, so a good SWRC contingent already. There must have been upwards of 600 bikes already assembled. I got mine quickly assembled, and set off for a quick spin to check it was working. 200 metres later, I was on the side of the road with the chain split. I very nearly cried with frustration! How could the chain break now? Fortunately it turned out that the new chain that had been fitted 2 weeks earlier had a Shimano “powerlink” which had split, and it was a 1 minute job to fix.
As you can probably imagine, Saturday evening was a very sober dinner, no alcohol, and early to bed. With our hotel, a 75 minute drive to the start, we had a 3.45 am start. But despite going to bed at 10pm, I was of course still counting sheep at well past midnight - still panicking about the chain falling off.
The start in Montelimar was monumental – 9,000 or so riders. My number was 3643, so we started moving around 7.15am, and were through the start gate at 7.20am.
Thousands of cyclists riding out through town, certainly not as shoulder-to-shoulder as I had imagined, but within a mile I was being overtaken left, right and centre! I couldn’t believe the pace that many were riding at - it was exactly as I had been warned – in theory I would be overtaking them later when they burned out.
The weather was fine, clear, and cool. The forecast was for much hotter later, so I just enjoyed the fantastic countryside as we cycled out to the 1st hill, Col de Citelle. This was a gentle 4% for 3 miles, zig-zagging up. This was fun – a longer but lighter gradient than Box Hill. The ride down the other side was very fast, until we were slowed up by police motorcyclists attending to a cyclist flat out on the side of the road looking in a very bad way. Another cyclist on the side of the road on his mobile phone. That was a strong reminder to be very careful on these fast descents.
The 2nd hill, Col d’Eye was similar to Citelle, but with ever more stunning scenery. Olive groves either side as we cycled up. The descent was wonderful; I had never enjoyed a ride as much: fast, technical, plenty of space between riders.
As we continued across country, all the junctions onto our road, and the villages were thronged with spectators, cheering us on, clapping, “Allez, Allez” rang in our ears. It really spurred me on. I had a plan with the Etape broken into 5 sections, each about 75 – 120 minutes, I got through the 1st two sections with 10 and 20 minutes ahead of schedule respectively. I was eating up the miles and really enjoying it. I concentrated on making sure I was always in a group going at a good pace, letting the French take the lead at the front!
After the 3rd hill, Col de Fantaube, the food & water stop was a welcome sight. Dumped my bike 100 yards back from the tables, and quickly got there to pick up more water and bananas, while others struggled with their bikes to the tables. Straight back on the bike and onto Col de Notre Dame des Abeilles. Along the way I met up with Graham Collins, from SWRC, and had a brief chat. Then further along, just going around a corner, was greeted with shouting from supporters at a junction “Come on the South Western!” I was so happy – I just waved back as I sped by.
It was now about midday and getting much hotter. There was little shade and this was a much longer climb. I knew there were a couple of “false tops” to this from watching Mike Cotty’s excellent recce DVD. I just didn’t realise how long and far we had to drop to cycle up the other side of these rollers. Punishing. The reward was a wide, fast open descent. I could only glance at the bike computer to see my speed at well over 40mph – but I was more concerned at how much altitude I was losing. These were all metres I was going to have to ascend shortly. As the descent ended, I had hoped we would be in Bedouin, the start of the Ventoux ascent. But it was a further 6 miles or so, largely uphill, and I began to flag a bit. But I hadn’t over-cooked it. I felt that I still had a lot left for Ventoux. Finally got to Bedouin. My time was now about 6 ½ hours - roughly on plan. The food stop was bedlam, but quickly picked up more water, made up more energy drink, and had my 1st gel. The village was absolutely packed with spectators – families were out cheering us on - each group had a track pump with them in case they could help out a cyclist.
I had read somewhere that a “good club cyclist” could get up to the summit of Ventoux at 1,912 metres in about 2 hours. So that was my target. 300 yards after I went over the timing strip just outside Bedouin, I got a puncture. That took about 10 minutes to fix – being very careful to make sure I didn’t mess it up and wreck this tube putting it on. It was so frustrating to see hundreds of cyclists passing by whilst I fixed this. 1st 3 miles of the 15 mile ascent was a 4-5% gradient, but the temperature was now up to 35C and with 90 miles already in the legs it wasn’t a walk in the park. Then around a corner, and it pitched up to 10% as we went into the forest. It wasn’t how I imagined it; there was less than a foot of shade on one side of the road as the sun burned overhead. It was airless, not a breath of wind. There was no chatter amongst the cyclists, just heaving breaths. Within about 20 minutes, many people – including myself – were alternating walking or resting with cycling. I mentally thanked the bike mechanic who had noted 2 weeks previously that my cassette was well worn, which had resulted in me changing from a 12-25 to a 12-27. I needed that “bail-out” gear the whole way. I watched the gradient on my Garmin, it rarely dropped below 9%. I had never seen carnage like this. Cyclists were dropping like flies. Many pushed their bikes under the trees and tried to cool off in the shade, others were being sick. I heard the ambulance repeatedly coming up the mountain collecting those who must have collapsed from fatigue and heat-exhaustion. At various points, when I looked around me, only one in five of the cyclists around were actually on their bikes. I couldn’t believe that I had come this far to find myself pushing my bike, and I repeatedly climbed back on to get another few hundred yards before my legs packed in.
Then a sign on the roadside, 2km to Chalet Reynard. “Everyone who gets to Ch. Reynard gets to the top”. I had heard that saying before, so back on the bike and willed myself to the mountain restaurant. It was now about 4.30pm. No water bottles left. An enterprising barman was filling up cyclist’s bidons from a garden hose. I now had an hour to complete the last 4 miles in the famous limestone lunar landscape that is Mt. Ventoux. There was now zero shade, but it was a little cooler, there was a breath of wind. I knew that if I resorted to pushing my bike I seriously risked missing the cut off time at 5.30pm. Somehow I cycled pretty much the whole way to the top, although as I went round a right hand turn to be confronted with yet more ascending, my will was truly tested. Round the last corner with a tight hairpin and over the timing line, it was 5pm exactly. My time was 9 hours 47 minutes and I had completed my 1st Etape.
I met up with other SWRC riders: Julie Riley and Paul Hart in Malaucene at the bottom of Ventoux to exchange stories, and I’m sure we’ll be recounting those over tea and cakes on Saturday morning rides for the next 12 months!
On top of that, I had set up a fund-raising page for the Rainbow Trust. This is a small local charity based in Leatherhead that runs a number of special homes for gravelly ill children and provides respite for their parents. Friends, families and work colleagues have generously donated over £2,500 to the Rainbow Trust through that page, and my employer, the Royal Bank of Canada will add a further £1,500 to make it over £4,000. That, in itself, has made all the pain worthwhile.
Postscript
James Cracknell completed L’Etape in 5 hours 56 minutes for a “Gold” award, over 2 hours ahead of Chris Boardman!